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To steam or not to steam?

There are some skin therapists who recommend facial steaming to hydrate and clear the skin, but other skin therapists who warn against it and tell us to avoid hot showers because they are dehydrating. Which statement is correct? Is steam good or bad for your skin?



There is no question why clients are confused more than ever; everyone has an opinion on what is good or bad for your skin and sometimes the advice we receive can be contradictory. So let's lay it all out on the table and argue the 'for' case and the 'against' case for facial steaming so you can decide for yourself!

“Steam results in osmosis which is hydrating for your skin."

One of the biggest buzz words in the cosmetic industry at the moment is 'osmosis'. In plain terms, osmosis is when a solvent (such as water) passes through a semipermeable barrier (like a cell wall) to equalise the concentration of solutes (such as salt etc) on each side of the barrier. The idea that facial steaming creates an osmotic environment relies upon the skin containing a lower water potential and the surrounding atmosphere containing a higher water potential. The water in the air and on the outside of the skin would then pass through the cell membranes to effectively hydrate the cells. Have you ever noticed your skin looks and feels plumper after a bath or shower (minus the prune fingers)? This is an everyday example of osmosis, and one of the main reasons why skin therapists may use steam during your skin treatment.


On the contrary, some skin therapists believe that steaming the skin has the reverse effect and that it actually dehydrates the skin. The reason for this is that the steam is warmer than the body, so the temperature can actually bring any water in your skin to the surface or even cause the skin to sweat out some of it's water content through your pores. Once the water is on the surface of the skin, it can easily evaporate. Have you ever experienced a 'tight' feeling in your skin following a hot shower (particularly in winter)? This is an example of how dry skin can be further dehydrated with heat, and one of the main reasons why some skin therapists may not recommend facial steaming (or hot showers!).


Ultimately, the decision on whether steam will benefit your skin will depend on the intensity of the steam and your skin condition at the time. A gentle steam floating over you from a reasonable distance can be quite beneficial. But if the skin already appears dry, red, flaky and sensitive (signs of dehydration), steam may be avoided to avoid exacerbating the problem.


More arguments for and against 'facial steaming'


There are other reasons why a skin therapist may recommend or avoid using steam in your treatments.


EXAMPLES OF WHEN STEAM MAY BE USED DURING YOUR TREATMENT:

  • steam can be used to create a humid atmosphere which softens the skin for treatment

  • steam can be used to make the skin more receptive to serums

  • steam can be used to open the pores and allow the skin to sweat out any impurities while also making it easier to extract any blockages within the pores

  • steam can be used to provide warmth or moisture to products that need to stay activated while the treatment is in process


EXAMPLES OF WHEN STEAM MAY NOT BE USED DURING YOUR TREATMENT:

  • when the client finds it uncomfortable as the steam feels claustrophobic to them or it is too warm (especially if the client is suffering from hot flashes)

  • when there is already too much heat in the skin, such as immediately post-treatment (particularly after skin needling, peels, waxing and IPL)

  • when a products needs to 'set' in order to complete the treatment (this includes brow or lash lamination which needs to remain dry for 24 hours!)

  • when 'dry healing' is required, like in the recovery phase of a tattoo or when there is dermatitis or eczema present in the skin



Steaming can also be used in 'hot and cold' therapy (think warm saunas and cool showers!). Heating and cooling the body promotes good circulation and oxygenation of the skin. This type of therapy can also help to reset and balance your oil production, leading to less skin problems. At The Cosmetic Hub there are times when we may use a mild steam to warm the skin at the start of a treatment, and a cold press to finish. It all depends on your current skin condition and the type of treatment that you are having.


Should I use steam at home?


Despite the benefits that steaming can have, it is important not to overdo it. Water needs to be boiling in order for steam to occur, and having anything this hot too close to your skin always carries a risk of dehydrating or burning the skin. Usually a warm shower creates enough steam to reap the rewards without creating too much heat, and you can do this daily! But for best results, try turning off the hot water and finish your shower with cool water - as cold as you can stand it! The cold water reduces inflammation and closes off your hair follicles for smoother hair. It also wakes you up!


Any further steam treatments should be limited to your occasional saunas (up to 3 times per week) and monthly skin treatments to avoid dehydrating the skin.


A final word...


Our best advice to you is... Listen to your body!

If you can see and feel the positive effects from occasional, gentle steaming, then do it and enjoy it! But if you notice any signs of dehydration such as a tight skin feeling, back off on the steam! And please communicate with your skin therapist as to whether or not you enjoy steam facials. We can tell a lot from the appearance of your skin, but only you can tell us how it feels.




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